Ancient roots and modern innovation

The pioneering spirit of historic Applegate, where settlers carved new paths while honoring the rhythms of the land, lives on today in its vineyards. Two wineries—Quady North and Troon—demonstrate how the future of wine may lie in both cutting-edge sustainability and ancient winemaking traditions. Here, innovation and history are not opposing forces; they coexist.

For Quady North, land stewardship has long been a central mission. They are now taking sustainability even further by addressing one of the industry’s highest environmental costs, the glass bottle. Glass bottles account for a significant portion of wine’s carbon footprint, largely due to the energy required to manufacture and transport them. Quady North was southern Oregon’s first winery to partner with Revino, a company leading the reusable-bottle trend by replacing traditional single-use bottles with durable glass bottles designed to be collected, cleaned, and reused multiple times. By eliminating the need to constantly manufacture new bottles, energy consumption and transportation emissions are drastically reduced.

Quady North began collecting bottles in 2024 and now serves as a Revino Collection Hub, accepting returns from customers and other wineries. They offer a $1 credit toward future wine purchases for every bottle returned. “If we truly believe in stewardship, we have to look at every part of the process,” says owner Herb Quady. “It’s not enough to farm biodynamically if the packaging and distribution still carry a heavy environmental footprint.” The reusable bottle program represents a forward-thinking approach to an industry that has historically relied on disposable packaging.

For Quady, innovation is not about chasing trends—it’s about aligning every decision with the health of the land. The wineries Troon, Dwell, and Schultz are also participating in the recycling program.

While these wineries are looking toward the future of sustainable packaging, Troon Vineyard is simultaneously reaching into the past. Under the guidance of winemaker Nate Wall, Troon has embraced amphora winemaking—one of the oldest fermentation methods in the history of wine. Amphorae are large clay vessels that have been used for millennia in ancient Mediterranean winemaking cultures.

Unlike oak barrels, amphorae allow a slow and natural exchange of oxygen through their porous clay walls. The result is often wines with remarkable texture and complexity. “These vessels have been used for thousands of years for a reason,” Nate says. “They create wines with incredible energy and texture that still stay true to the fruit.” Aging in oak barrels does something like what using spices does to your cooking, whereas amphorae are neutral-tasting vessels, “letting the vineyard speak more clearly,” Nate says, “and allowing fermentation to unfold in a natural, undisguised way.”

For Nate, who is deeply committed to regenerative farming, the method fits perfectly with Troon’s philosophy. As the vineyard is farmed with a focus on soil health and biodiversity, the winery itself seeks to work with nature rather than control it. By building a healthy farm ecosystem through biodynamic regenerative practices—using bird boxes, raptor perches, and pollinator habitats—Troon Winery has created a habitat in which the wildlife has returned and the land is “abuzz” with the symphony of nature thriving. Amphora winemaking fits right in.

Despite the different approaches of Quady North and Troon—one pioneering new sustainability technologies and the other reviving ancient winemaking techniques—the two wineries share a common commitment to the land. Both practice biodynamic farming and view their farms as living ecosystems rather than production facilities. Cover crops, biodiversity, and soil health are essential parts of their work, helping to create resilient and expressive vineyards. The goal is not simply to grow grapes, but to nurture a thriving landscape that can sustain itself for generations.

The story of wine in the Applegate is still unfolding, but its direction is clear. By combining the wisdom of ancient practices with new sustainability initiatives, wineries like Troon and Quady North are redefining what modern winemaking can be. Their efforts demonstrate that progress does not mean abandoning tradition, nor does honoring the past require resisting innovation. In the Applegate, the old and the new work together, just as they always have. In that balance, the region continues its pioneering legacy, crafting wines that reflect both the land and the evolving vision of those who care for it.

Cathy Rodgers

cathyrodgers55@gmail.com

Photo 1: Riley, Troon intern, checks the wine in the amorpha process. Photo: Nate Wall.

Photo 2: Nate Wall making wine using a traditional clay vessel, the amorpha. Photo: Cathy Rodgers.